You will need
- A fencepost (or any piece of wood with a flat end)
- A saw
- A hammer, preferably a decent sized lump hammer.
- Some 32mm waste pipe, for a 1 1/8" crown race
or
- Some 43mm waste pipe for a 1.5" crown race (careful not to get 40mm pipe as it won't fit over the steerer)
- Grease the steerer, slip the race over the steerer, and fit the pipe over the top.
- Support the fork by the crown, not by the delicate air values or adjuster gizmos that come out the bottom of the fork.
- "Tap" the pipe to drive the crown race onto the steerer, which will go down nice and straight because you are using a nice long bit of tube with a flat end (this is called "using a suitable drift"). You'll need to put something over the top of the pipe (a bit of wood), otherwise it'll just get mashed with the hammer.
Yes, eventually the end of the waste pipe will be destroyed. If you have a mitre box you can cut a new end. Or get another bit of pipe.
Then the headset cups
- Cut fencepost so that you have one bit that is about a metre long.
- Support the frame securely and with one end of the head tube resting exactly flat on the offcut.
- Lightly grease cup & headtube, place cup in the open end of headtube.
- Rest the flat end of the metre long bit of fencepost (get it centred!) on the headset cup. Hold it vertical.
- Hit fencepost with hammer. Right in the middle. Because you are using a nice long bit of post with a flat end (that's another "suitable drift" by the way), the cup is driven in straight.
- Repeat until cup is completely in.
- Flip the frame over and do the whole lot again, for the other cup.
Easy!
No expensive tools were used in the making of this guide.
But gosh darn it, hitting expensive precision made bike parts with a hammer and a bit of wood is wrong
Maybe so. Your choice - a Park Tool headset press is £140, the cup installer is £55. A bike shop will it for £10.
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