Wednesday 21 November 2012

More Winter Fettling

Anyone who lives in the UK will have spotted that it has been a bit wet recently. For me, one thing that means is less riding, and more fixing.

Last week's job was another "winter-ising" moment. My commuter/utility/child-carrying MTB needed some full length guards for the next few months. As usual that means trying to stick things on a bike that doesn't have any handy screw holes...


Oh yeah - more P clip magic. This time I needed two on the fork legs, two at the top, and the piece-de-resistance: a home made alloy bracket running across the fork to hold the front guard mount. Its just a small piece of 4mm aluminium cut to size and drilled (5mm) for the mounting bolts. It's been a while since metalwork class at school!

That's it for now...

Tuesday 30 October 2012

Keeping Your Backside Dry

SKS Commuter Mudguards Review


I needed some guards for a road going mountain bike, the SKS commuter guards seemed to fit the bill: "high quality - low cost - full length mudguard set with high quality - stainless-steel fittings from the producers of the World s finest mudguards". Let's see if they match the hype.


Wednesday 3 October 2012

Them's The Brakes

Project Elixode 5, The Frankenbrake


+ =
Elixir 5 Levers Code 5 Callipers Herman?

The Dream

Take lightweight Elixir 5 levers with their nice feel, and marry them to Code 5 callipers with large pads. Get the improved modulation of the Elixir levers, get the increased power of the Code callipers.

Tuesday 11 September 2012

Bleedin' 'ell, guv

A lot of Elixir

Recently, I've added a couple of pairs of Avid's Elixir brakes to the RideItFixIt garage. Second hand pairs mind, that had some problems... Problems which thankfully turn out (so far) to mean "by jove, these brakes are in need of a jolly good bleeding". I've also had to bleed another pair not long ago - that's a few bleeds I've done lately.

As you might guess, I'm a big fan of Avid brakes here - especially the current models (Elixir, and no, I don't like Juicys). Decent modulation and power and good vfm. The levers can feel a bit plasticky, especially on the cheaper, models, but they work, well, and are very effective bits of kit. I've ridden some Hayes (never again) and Shimano (quite nice) brakes, I think the Avids are a tough act to beat.

So, let's take a look inside the Elixir, and I'll list a few hints and easy fixes for common problems with these things.

A trip round the Elixir lever, or how TaperBore(TM) works

Prototype Elixir lever was "a bit plasticky"

Friday 10 August 2012

2012, the Year the Road Bike World gets Disc Brakes

Iceberg Ahead Captain

Iceberg Disc Brake

It's coming. One way or another, because you, yes you, the public, demand it. Hydraulic disc brakes have been so effective for mountain bikes, we must have them on road bikes, now!

Saturday 28 July 2012

Ghetto Tubeless Do & Don't

Knackers


I had my first failure on a ghetto tubeless setup a few days ago - while experimenting with lower pressures and landing a small jump I had the front tyre lose pressure... with the amusing (not at the time) side effect of putting me right over the bars and landing my little chaps on the top tube. Painful. And the tyre didn't re-seal properly, either, leaving me with a wheel I had no confidence in, with a slow puncture. Time to head home...


Tuesday 17 July 2012

Rim Tape

Sometimes, you can't DIY...


With a combination of the rubbish UK weather and an injured shoulder, I've only been riding the road bike lately. I had two mysterious flat tyres within the space of few days... both without any thorns, and both while the bike was in the car. Easy enough to fix, if a bit of a pain and cut short a ride or two. So what was behind the mystery?

The tube had bulged into them there holes.

Turns out that it was all my fault (of course, these things usually are). When I'd built the wheels I'd used a few wraps of electrical tape to cover the spoke holes. Now this is all perfectly satisfactory in the land of 30psi mountain bike tyres, but when it comes to road bikes, the high pressures (100psi+) are far too much for the tape to support, and the tube had squished itself down into the spoke holes. Now, take the bike out for a few rides, and presto - much chafing action.

Lesson learned: no more electrical tape for me - proper stuff only, from now on.

Friday 29 June 2012

Review updates

A quick update on my recent reviews, now I've been using the bits review for a few months.

Monday 25 June 2012

Marzocchi 66 ATA

A really short post today - oddly enough with it being summer I'm out riding a bit more than I am fixing things...


So today its just a few links to resources for Marzocchi's big air sprung freeride fork.


Basic setup

Just remember: PAR chamber must be 15psi more than main air chamber.

http://www.marzocchi.com/System/55345/ATA%20SETUP.pdf

Forum links on common issues:

MTBR forums - fixing 66 ATA "stuckdown" problem
MTBR - 66 ATA info
MTBR - 66 ATA setup and further info on ATA internals

Wednesday 6 June 2012

DIY Protection

Or, how to cover your delicate parts with rubber, fnar.

Sun Ringle Estate rims for the On One Max hubs

Budget Summer Season Wheels

Rims. Round, with lots of holes in them for spokes. What else do you need to know?

Question is, on the somewhat limited RideItFixIt budget, could I scrape together enough cash to lace some appropriate rims to the On One hubs I recently reviewed and get them out on the trail?

Well, obviously I could, or this would be a
very short post.
And just what was the bare minimum cost for which I could put together a set of wheels, including tyres and cassette?

Friday 25 May 2012

26, 650b, 29er

650b wheels are not the second coming of Jesus

Not a 650b wheel

...although you might be forgiven for thinking that, if you've been reading any MTB magazines or website this last year. And the year before that, it was 29er wheels that were going to solve the energy crisis and save the planet.

Monday 21 May 2012

Grind My Gears



Be careful who you listen to...

Why Other People's Drivetrain Reviews Suck

Tuesday 8 May 2012

Flattening out the Bumpy Bits

Shocks Absorbers... The better they are, the less you have to think about them. So what goes on inside the average MTB shock?


An average MTB shock, yesterday.

Spring & Damper

A basic shock absorber consists of two things, a spring and a damper. The spring is quite simple, a metal coil, or an air spring. The spring supports (or suspends) the weight on the bike (i.e. you). We won't consider springs very much here. Suffice to say that when you compress a spring, it extends again, and can oscillate. Oscillations are baaad, mmkay? A shock that did this would ride terribly. We need a thing to stop the oscillations - the damper. The damper is where the magic happens. Let's look inside...


Wednesday 25 April 2012

On-One Max Hubset Review & Servicing

This is a Service Guide + First Impressions review of On-One's value for money AM hubset, sold as part of their "MAX Adaptable Maxle Wheelset", or on their own for £80 a pair (£40 each, front and rear).

Everythings cheaper up north...

Well, you can't argue with the price. This is about as good as it gets for a 20mm front hub, and a 10mm bolt-thru rear hub. These hubs will run you a total of £80 for both front and rear hubs from the Yorkshire based outfit On-One (or is it Planet-X? I can never tell).

Close competition comes from Superstar's Switch EVO hubs, which are £20 more but do have four cartridge bearings at the rear, Halo's Spin Doctor, Octane One Orbitals, DMR Revolver 3-pawl, the inevitable Shimano offerings - SLX at this price point, and of course a huge number of others I haven't listed. It's a fairly competitive sector of the hub market - although the prices for through-axle style hubs have yet to drop to the level of QR hubs.

On One?

Well, no, only "sort of". On-One are not Hope - so no in-house manufacture here. These are the product of the Chosen Hub Co. of Taiwan (you might have guessed it was a rebrand from the price). Anyway, lets take a look inside...

Sunday 22 April 2012

Ghetto Tubeless Inflater

DIY bottle inflater doing its stuff


This really does make the trickiest stage of a tubeless conversion (getting the first inflation) easy as cake.

Monday 16 April 2012

Manitou Evolver ISX6 Setup



Dark horse?

X Marks the Shock

Fox, Rockshox... I wanted different, I wanted special, I wanted, well, some suspension made by a company who didn't end with "X"... So I bought a Manitou Evolver. It is not a current model (2010) - the 2012 equivalent is  the Swinger Pro DC which adds a lockout, but is (I believe) internally the same shock.

The Evolver is a large volume air shock, with a lot of adjustability: main air spring, rebound damping, separate high + low compression damping, mildly mysterious volume adjust, and the even more mysterious IFP (so mysterious it only has a three letter acronym), are all separately adjustable.

Don't try this at home.

WTF?

Confused by the adjustments? I was. The manual is crap. It doesn't even tell you what the IFP does! And this shock has a lot of adjustments. After some time scouring the net, I found a few things out about the shock, and how to set it up. If you don't own one, sorry  - this post probably won't be that interesting... if you do, read on.

Wednesday 11 April 2012

Double Chainguide, a Cautionary Tale...

Chain Gang

Losing your chain from the cranks a bit too regularly? Me too. I wanted to use a chainguide on my bike to fix that. I have a double chainring setup, so that means going with a guide like MRP's Long Range Patrol or the Blackspire Stinger:


MRP's Long Range Patrol - bashring and chainguide.

Monday 2 April 2012

Ghetto Tubeless Walk-through

What is this ghetto tubeless thing anyway?

So, normal bike tyres use a rubber inner tube, the inner tube sits inside the tyre and is a cheap and easy way to keep air inside your tyres (you know this already). A ghetto tubeless setup does away with the regular inner tube, instead relying on the tyre itself to hold air, and a narrow strip of a BMX inner tube to seal the rim. Being ghetto, this is of course done at minimal cost and with your existing hardware.

You can buy ready-to-go rims ("UST") which are airtight (and expensive) and tyres that work on these rims without sealant (heavy, also expensive)... but then why would you be reading this guide to doing it on the cheap?


Look how happy the Michelin Man is with his tubeless tyre.

Regular tubes vs ghetto tubeless

Regular inner tubes work ok. For road bikes they work pretty good. On a mountain bike you have less pressure in the tyres, and as a result you are much more likely to have pinch flats ("snakebites") where the tube is cut by the rim itself as the rim bangs up against something solid. Plus, you tend to ride over rough ground in the great outdoors - with a lot of spiky stones and thorns and other sharp things. Result = punctures.

A ghetto tubeless setup relies on having liquid latex sealant slosh around inside the tyres. When you get a puncture from a thorn or (small!) stone the latex sealant will be able to seal the puncture, a lot of times without you even noticing. Instantly, 90% of your previous puncture problems vanish. That's the promise, anyway.

Wednesday 21 March 2012

Ghetto Headset Installation

Continuing on the headset theme, this is my as-cheap-as-it-get method of installing a headset & crown race...

You will need
  • A fencepost (or any piece of wood with a flat end)
  • A saw
  • A hammer, preferably a decent sized lump hammer.
  • Some 32mm waste pipe, for a 1 1/8" crown race

Wednesday 14 March 2012

How to make your headset last longer

New head please

I recently had to replace a headset when making a change of forks. Budget being what it was (i.e.completely blown by the purchase of some new forks) I couldn't afford a King headset. With a new arrival in the family lately I have a lot less spare cash to blow on bling MTB parts. And on a 1.5" steerer, the choice of headset is quite limited.

Miss Piggy

Pig 1.5"
Basically, I needed a headset, star nut and top cap bundle. My final choice being FSA's solid (all steel, heavy) open bearing (cheap) Big Fat Pig. It's not incredible - the stack height is not small (29mm), it weighs the best part of a pound (345g). But, as far as it goes, it's nicely made, like almost every other FSA part I've owned.

In the 1.5" standard size, it is their budget offering...

Friday 24 February 2012

Alu vs Carbon: Pinkbike's Santa Cruz Destruction testing video

Pinkbike's soon-to-be infamous video of carbon vs aluminium frames in the Santa Cruz labs:

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/santa-cruz-bicycles-test-lab.html

Carbon is a marvellous thing. It has the potential to be light, extremely stiff, and all that in fantastic shapes that simply can't be achieved with metal. Contrast that with aluminium, which is also light and extremely stiff, but can only make some shapes and those are slightly less fantastic (hydroformed alloy tubes look cool - I'm not 100% convinced that they're the best thing ever, as the distribution of metal can be unpredictable, your thin bits end up with thick walls, and the thick bits end up with thinner walls).

But I still have one reservation about using carbon parts on a bike designed for off road abuse - quality control. Just by looking at the outside of a frame you have no real idea about whether its been well designed, in terms of where the strength is, and whether it has been well made; the quality of the carbon cloth and resins that were used, have the pivot points for moving parts been bonded to the carbon properly, are the fibres all in the right direction to extract maximum strength from the material. In the competitively priced bike industry, especially at the cheaper end of the scale, that's a lot of unknowns. You could say similar things about aluminium but basically, its down to the tube's source and the weld quality: if your bike uses Easton tubes, that's one bit sorted, and the weld quality is practically a non-issue these days (who buys bikes based on weld quality, other than Orange customers, and people who aren't buying Commencals?).

Now its fairly clear that Santa Cruz take their QC seriously - the video is testament to that. It's pretty clear their frames will handle an enormous amount of abuse.

But I'm still waiting on the video that shows sharp rock impact tests on a carbon frame. Its far easier to bang a small hole in the side of a carbon tube, than it is to buckle the tube. And once you have that hole, the tube's integrity is compromised. Effectively ending the frames life. Aluminium, by contrast, well, you'll have a dent. Not the end of the world although a bit of a pisser if you like your bike to stay nice and shiny.

Personally, I am still a little scared by the possibility of carbon parts failing and leaving lethal sharp edges. I can't see the value for MTBs (with the exception of high priced flyweight XC bikes ridden by whippets). The cost/benefit just isn't there. You drop a bit of weight, sure, but for the average rider, is that really an issue? The land of MTB doesn't really care about aerodynamics; unlike road bikes, which are a whole different thing - carbon rims and frames are de facto for the aerodynamic benefits. But for a recreational MTB rider, to my mind aluminium for MTBs is just cheaper and as effective.

For sure, cheap aluminium can go wrong. Commencal's problems in 2009 are a well documented example.

But my hat still hangs on the aluminium hook. At least when I'm riding a MTB.

Saturday 18 February 2012

Spoke Notes

Tensionometers vs musical pitch

Serious wheelbuilders will use a spoke tensionometer to measure the spokes and to know when they have the spoke nipples at their optimum tightness.

What if your budget doesn't run to one of these tools? Or, you just want to check some pre-made wheels?

Well, fortunately, spokes make a predictable tone when they are plucked or twanged (just like a guitar). By comparing this tone with a predicted list, you can ensure your wheel has its spoke tensions correct.

A useful article here http://bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm has a list of musical notes that match the optimum tension in both plain and db spokes.

The following four notes are the most common pitches for standard (3 cross) wheelbuilds:

700c plain spoke - approx 290mm - G - 392Hz
700c DB spoke - approx 290mm - A - 440Hz
26" plain spoke - approx 260mm - A - 440Hz
26" DB spoke - approx 260mm - B - 493Hz


Match them up to your own spokes using a tuning fork to make the musical tones http://www.seventhstring.com/tuningfork/tuningfork.html


Thursday 16 February 2012

Wheel Deal

Funn Bullet hubs, ACI DB spokes & Funn Xlrater rims... result:

F&R

Rear hub

Front hub

Rim detail
The rims are some strong beasties (28mm wide) and are made by Sun ("Funn Rims by Sun" it says on the labels) so quality isn't an issue. The front hub has the useful ability to swap between 9mm QR and 20mm with some press-in adaptors. Pretty standard fare now for hubs but quite neat when the hubs were first released (2008 or 2009 I think).

Friday 10 February 2012

Novatec MTB Hubs Review

Bling

Hope, Chris King, Royce, Hadley, White, the list of aftermarket hub manufacturers is almost endless. You can find fans of most of them if you look hard enough. And generally with good reason: a lot of the boutique hubs are very well made and have good backup service. For this you pay a decent sum: here in the UK a set of Hopes will run you near on £200, a pair of Royce, closer to £350, and for Kings, about £500. Not for the budget conscious!

Not Bling

But what happens before aftermarket? When you buy a bike in the first place? Especially for the sub £1000 bikes, which makes up the vast bulk of the bike market.

It'll come with some hubs. They might even be quite good hubs. They'll invariably have the word "Shimano" written on them - or the name of the bike manufacturer. Everyone knows Shimano. That leaves the in house branded items.

Badge Engineering

Chances are, if you've bought a Giant, or Specialized, or Trek, that the hubs have been made in Taiwan, like the rest of the bike. The companies Joytech, Formula, Chosen, and a few others, knock out these components in huge volumes, often to be rebranded and sold on. Not just by the big bike companies, but by the smaller guys as well, for instance in the UK take a look at Superstar Components who are quite open about only sourcing their gear from mass manufacturers and rebranding it (without adding an expensive advertising service). A lot of companies who simply want to complete their existing component range will source bits from these guys - compare DT Swiss (who make rims, spokes and hubs) with Specialized (who get rims from DT Swiss and hubs from Formula and spokes from who-knows-where).